Each 'content' page on this site has a corresponding 'preload' page that checks for javascript and cookies -- if they're enabled then some non-essential graphics enhancements take effect in the 'content' pages. This process should be 95% transparent when javascript and cookies are enabled.
If you're reading this, then either you're probably reading very quickly during the pause before the 'content' page loads -- or something has gone wrong. In the latter case, you should be able to click the link below and go on to the 'content' page.
http://www.mearnsworld.com/index-content.php
Incidentally, the biggest clunkiness with no javascript+cookies on this site is probably that your browser history will retain the 'preload' pages, so the back button becomes cumbersome.